The Bar behind Bars
─Hey sister, give me two bottles of green.
The gap between the metal bars are just wide enough for bottles to pass through. 500 kwatcha ($1,5) is exchanged for two bottles of Carlsberg.
─Do you like the Gunners? I like the Gunners, the guy with the Arsenal t-shirt and the two bottles asks as he wanders off with a slight sway, not waiting for any answer.
We are having a drink in Woody woodpecker. The name sounds innocent enough, but the address is slightly nastier. This legendary bottle store is situated in Devil Street. This tiny strip of broken tarmac and dirt isn’t really called Devil Street, but as the three main sources of income here are booze, sex and illegal gambling the name serves it’s purpose: It attracts some people, and scare off others. Most, no to say all, mzungus stay well clear. To us it’s like a magnet. Not because of what they sell here, but because of who it attracts. When white people, or mzungus, are in Africa they spend more time with white people than they do at home. They work, play, eat and drink in an environment that would have made the inventors of apartheid proud.
We came to Malawi to talk to Malawians. Therefore it makes more sense to have drink where the locals meet – despite the warnings given by guidebooks and expats.
It’s only five in the afternoon, but the bottle store has plenty of customers, and so much noise that we bring our brew outside.
─Have a seat, boys. Rodwell Ziyaya (42) and his friends nods towards the two empty chairs lined up outside.
Rodwell is a businessman dealing in Chinese suitcases and lady’s clothes. Business is slow at the moment. Still our new friend is optimistic. In a month the tobacco auctions will start trading again, and as the crop is very good this year things are about to improve. In the meantime drinking seems like a good way to pass time.
─Malawi, Rodwell says with a smile, is a very friendly place, and Devil Street isn’t as bad as they tell you. Just look for yourself.
Some of the pedestrians are definitely not fit for anything but walking right now, still no one is threatening or aggressive. It is afternoon and people are having a drink on their way home from work, just like in any other corner of the world. The bar with bars is neither nice nor cozy. But it has plenty of rugged charm, and a happy crowd.
After all, what more could you possibly ask for than a room with a brew?
February 28, 2013 at 21:44
Reblogged this on Münchow's Creative Photo Blog and commented:
My colleague, Oystein, and I are out travelling again. This time it’s to Malawi. As usual we will publish daily post on our blog. The post I will reblog here as well – if you are interested to follow us. Our purpose with this travel is partly to do stories from Malawi and partly to prepare for a workshop we are going to teach here later in April this year. I hope you will enjoy our small glimpses of everyday life in Malawi.
February 28, 2013 at 22:41
ciao Otto
wonderful photos
:-)you are the star.
vento
February 28, 2013 at 23:39
Wonderful comment Ivana. Thank you so much.
March 1, 2013 at 01:29
Very striking photos, Otto.
They really convey the everyday life on this street.
March 1, 2013 at 07:55
Love room with the brew 🙂
March 1, 2013 at 09:32
Herlige bilder og lesning.
Ser fram til neste innlegg ; )
March 1, 2013 at 14:38
You have me listening!
March 2, 2013 at 01:09
Great post! Great photos! I enjoyed it thoroughly.
March 2, 2013 at 08:25
Love the photos – looks like fun. 🙂 Room with a brew … funny!
March 2, 2013 at 08:44
Great color in both the photos and commentary. It looks nicer than you have led me to believe. Nice to get a sense of what you are doing.
March 2, 2013 at 17:56
Beautiful capture of real life.
March 2, 2013 at 21:32
I started reading this post with a passing interest. After reading the first few sentences my interest piqued. By the time I reached its end I wanted to know more about your time in Malawi. I am sure that there was more to learn from the Malawians after drinks on Devil Street. Yet, the pictures and narration told a story about an average afternoon in an African country through the eyes of two Whites. When traveling I have always sought out the native population in order to get a feel for the country and its culture. Unfortunately being a foreigner in a distant land all too often attracts the wrong type of attention. Your courage and investigative curiosity is something to be admired.
March 2, 2013 at 22:32
Thanks for the window on Malawi. My husband have not been to that corner of the world. Love the photos.
March 2, 2013 at 22:33
Geez, I should have proofread my comment – meant to say my husband and I have not been to that corner of the world!
March 2, 2013 at 22:41
good one, nice shots.
March 3, 2013 at 02:59
Thank you for sharing your story and giving me a peek into a world I know little about. I’d write more, but you’ve piqued my interest and I’m anxious to google Malawi and learn more. Oh, I love your beautiful photos and although they pop with a black background, the white letters on black hurt my eyes. You might get more older people (like me) to read your blog if you changed the color of the background.
March 3, 2013 at 04:30
Great pictures! Incredibly amazing. I love the writing too. I like that you went were the guidebook told you not to. 🙂 I respect your courage, and you lived.
March 3, 2013 at 05:43
so wonderful to have you and your colleague as the tour guide…love that you travel off the beaten path. ♥
March 3, 2013 at 08:06
Beautifully captured nd well written…
I too write Blogs..-(sudarshan7nair.wordpress.com)
please read if you get time and post your beloved comments.
March 3, 2013 at 08:27
Cool blog!!
Cultclassik.wordpress.com
March 3, 2013 at 08:59
Must have been a lot of fun! Great photos.
March 3, 2013 at 11:54
Interesting insight
X
March 3, 2013 at 13:16
Can’t judge a street by it’s name!
March 3, 2013 at 14:09
I’ve introduced you at
http://paper.li/frizztext/1341657171?edition_id=895a7b50-83d4-11e2-91fa-0025907212e8
+
March 3, 2013 at 17:06
I love that despite the “warnings” you went to Devil Street!
I live in Republica Dominicana, an expat Canadian, and yes though this country is dangerous, media, hotels, etc, do this country a huge dis-service dissuading people from exploring. The only need to explore smartly! Very few experience the real DR and that is a shame. I daresay the same holds true for much of Africa!
March 3, 2013 at 18:09
You have made travel to Malawi an art. It seems like there is enough fascinating culture in this particular place in the world to mesmerize all of us. And your photos fit your descriptions – your descriptions fit your photos. Awesome.
March 3, 2013 at 18:28
Great and deep pictures.. i liked every shot.. good job!
March 3, 2013 at 20:19
Great pictures!
March 3, 2013 at 22:39
I love your photos and post! It is so “real” to life! The good, the sleazy, all so closed together – A tightrope walk
March 3, 2013 at 23:29
[…] The Bar Behind Bars: They have bars in prison now?! Isn’t that like sticking a potted plant in a “Lumberjacks Anonymous” meeting? Or a nursery in a “Baby Punter’s Association” club house? […]
March 3, 2013 at 23:59
I really like your blog and would love you to guest post on my, http://www.5thingstodotoday.com site. All you have to do is write five suggestions along with a link back to your site. Please check out the blog and see the sort of things people have written about.
March 4, 2013 at 00:45
Love the photos. They bring the article to life.
March 4, 2013 at 04:31
So many people fear for their lives in foreign places, yet life goes on, people live and breath. It is nice to have a glimpse into a place where people, real people live. Life happens everywhere, humanity is not contained by borders of bob wire, or skin.
March 4, 2013 at 05:20
I love that top photo and I love the writing – it is concise and hard-hitting. I love having a drink at local bars. I remember my first minutes in Delhi last year I went into a local dive and drank a couple of beers as locals watched cricket on TV. It was a great introduction to the country.
March 4, 2013 at 05:42
Love the photos 🙂
March 4, 2013 at 10:27
Reblogged this on dcharmion and commented:
nice photos
March 4, 2013 at 13:25
I love the way in which you capture the interactions in bar and the pictures does tell a story of ordinary people.
March 4, 2013 at 13:33
Looks like a fun place to find trouble!
March 4, 2013 at 15:35
Cool story mate! Not sure what you mean by “only 5 in the afternoon” since this seems pretty late to start drinking. But I enjoyed the story very much! Cheers from a place without bars! 😉
March 4, 2013 at 19:44
This is exactly the type of place I would look for. I’ve always wanted to experience the local’s hangouts over those recommended by a tourist guide. Isn’t it wonderful that a place with such a “dark” reputation has chosen such a bright turquoise colour for it’s bars?
March 4, 2013 at 21:37
Cool Blog!!
Cultclassik.wordpress.com
Pinterest.com/cultclassik
March 4, 2013 at 23:02
Great blog and great pictures. I will be following.
March 6, 2013 at 05:57
A room with a brew? Fess up, You’ve worked this post round that last line. 🙂 Just joking, great post.
March 6, 2013 at 13:06
NIce story mate
March 6, 2013 at 18:24
A roof and a beer yes.
Not sure about arsenal though.
Thanks.
Excellent blog.
March 6, 2013 at 22:03
Nice blog
March 7, 2013 at 00:02
Beautiful photos. I love your blog!
March 7, 2013 at 20:41
Wonderful blog. I agree that we should get out there and see life as it really is, otherwise why bother going to another country in the first place.
March 8, 2013 at 07:15
Love your pictures. Your writing is gripping too!
March 8, 2013 at 16:59
Wow, for en tur gutter! Skulle gjerne gjort det samme. Fantastiske bilder og viktig historie. Stå på!
March 8, 2013 at 20:58
Absolutely LOVE the pictures. Great writing. Thank you!
March 11, 2013 at 13:19
Reblogged this on Oyia Brown.
March 19, 2013 at 22:40
Hey .. All animals hav to meet at the watering hole to refresh themselves. We’re no different as humans. Especially when therse SEX and gambling there bound to be loads of fun LOL. see u there
March 19, 2013 at 22:47
Reblogged this on wewillcleanitforyou and commented:
Hey.. All animals hav to meet at the watering hole to refresh themselves. We’re no different as humans. Especially when therse SEX and gambling there bound to be loads of fun LOL.. see you there.
March 25, 2013 at 00:30
Some things are just so universal and your great shots have us all there, enjoying the company and the brew. Cheers to you all!
March 30, 2013 at 06:33
I love this, your write-up. The photos too, but just love the commentary.
When you wrote Malawe – I wondered how that girl is, who survived the terrorist attack directly upon her. Bless her.
But great observations, poetically simply expressed.
March 31, 2013 at 07:10
You had quite the trip! I’m envious. 😆
April 18, 2013 at 06:33
Fantastic overview you’ve got here honda looks like the newest thing. I”m about Used Honda Odyssey currently.
June 21, 2013 at 15:55
Hello, I enjoy reading all of your article.
I like to write a little comment to support you.
July 21, 2013 at 20:55
Neat blog! Is your theme custom made or did you download it from
somewhere? A theme like yours with a few simple tweeks
would really make my blog jump out. Please let me know where you got your theme.
Thank you
July 23, 2013 at 15:11
I like it when folks come together and share opinions.
Great blog, stick with it!
August 25, 2013 at 10:59
Unquestionably consider that which you said. Your favorite justification appeared to be at the net
the simplest thing to have in mind of. I say to you, I certainly get irked while other folks consider worries that
they just don’t recognise about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top and also defined out the entire thing with no need side effect , folks can take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks
November 29, 2013 at 04:25
We are a group of volunteers and opening a new scheme in
our community. Your site provided us with valuable info to work on.
You have done a formidable job and our whole community will be grateful to you.
January 8, 2015 at 04:49
I wish people would do more for each other and I am a conservative who feels people come first. Billionaires are insanely rich while women are battered and abused around the world. The problem is the poor are characterized as lazy, when in fact they live where they do because of destiny.